To continue my research into Shibori i began looking for artists or designers who had incorporated the technique into their own designs and came across Michelle Griffiths who is a professional artist and teacher, living in South Wales. she is also the world Shibori Network representative for UK/Ireland. in her work she explores the natural rhythm of traditional shabori techniques to create modern 3D sculptures, working in predominately whites and creams to create purely textural forms.
Griffiths came across the techniques and became inspired by the techniques whilst in Japan as part of her mature scholarship studies in embroidery.
she was immediately fascinated with how the techniques had become second nature to the artists preparing the sculptures and they didn't need to look at what they were doing anymore, but also the fascinating shapes that could be developed through the technique.
below are a few more interesting design produced by Griffith using the shibori technique and various objects.
this process appeals to me for this project as it would create some interesting 3D textural detailing within the fabrics of the garment and could be achieved fairly easily, i could also experiment with lots of different objects to further develop my ideas and the results are similar to some of the details form the fish and under sea life so would work well with my designs however i wish to sample this technique further to see if the results would work and be use able within my garment designs.
Continuing my research today i began looking at fabric manipulation techniques that i could incorporate or try through sampling for my final piece. one such technique i came across that gave and interesting 3D effect was the Shibori technique using chiffon fabric which was ideal as i intended to use chiffon in my designs.
Above is a sample of shibori using Organza and marbles to create the effect.
Shibori is Japanese technique and term for dying cloth, similar to Tye-dye, using various methods of stitching or twisting or dying to produce the effect. however it can also give texture to a fabric by placing solid objects into the fabrics whilst being steamed causing the fabric to shrink and hold the shape of the object.
This technique was the sort i had in mind for fabric manipulations for this project and to help me expand and experiment with new techniques and ideas. so will sample this idea later in the designing stages in various ways.
below are a few images of other ways of tying the shibori to create other effects in the fabrics. a few of these i will try later as they could give an interesting textural element to the design.
Another book i looked at and have had in my personal collection for a while was the 'Fashion Designers Sketchbooks' by Hywel Davies. this book is a wonderful resource of inspiration and looks at allot of the most influential and well known and respected current designer and how they work. it has lots of fascinating facts and information as well as intriguing imagery of the designers work either on the stand or sketches of designs.
one of the designers that i came across was BOUDICCA described as more of an art concept the collection is the work of Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby graduates from Middlesex University in 1997. the collection is made up of beautiful clothes that are impeccably cut and non-conformist. the designers have explored the balance between edginess and femininity through their stylized and refined collections. this is what drew me to them as it is a similar idea to my own for this project. they have also used modern technologies such as 3D modelling and data processing, that they then translated into paper installations to create the collection.
This idea of using technology to help create the designs and even be inspired by in an area i would like to look into in the future however for this project I'm not sure it relates, however their creation of over sized and 3D shapes does appeal to me for this project and would be and interesting way to combine my ideas whilst challenging my skills in pattern cutting and manipulations.
below are a few images taken from my copy of the book of the BOUDICCA collection.
From researching all these fascinating designers and their collections i felt today was a good time to start looking through some of the books on pattern cutting and manipulation i had previously ordered in the week. the pattern books were both advanced and basic to help me build upon and further me pattern cutting knowledge and skills.
Today i began to really look at these books and found some interesting techniques that would help me to create both modern and more advanced shapes within my garment. one of these books was the English version of the Japanese 'Pattern Magic' book by Tomoko Nakamichi.
The author is a skilled pattern maker and professor at Bunka Fashion College, delivering lectures and courses on pattern making in her native japan an internationally.
This book is fascinating and has lots of images and good information on how to create some of the pieces shown or methods to create your own, it looks allot at more modern shapes created from basic pattern blocks which is exactly what i want to start with for this project.
below are a few images from my copy of the book that show some of the techniques i would like to sample and possibly use or develop for this project.
I like each of these techniques as the textural or 3D effect they create from the main body of the garment is the sort of thing i would like to try on my design for this project. i will start by sampling each of them to help confirm my ideas and how they could be manipulated or incorporated into my designs.
whilst continuing my research today, i came across up and coming designer Anna Sofie Madsen, a German designer and illustrator who has studied/worked under both John Galliano for Dior and the late Alexander McQueen as junior Designer.
i was inspired by her debute collection S/S 2012 which drew its theme from the legendary Japanese Hayao Miyazaki animation Film, Princess Mononoke from 1997. the meaning Mononoke is a Japanese term meaning Spirit or monster, this duality is expressed in the contrast between the ethereal and solid garments in the collection. taking techniques from classic European ballet costumes meets craftsmanship and silhouettes from the late Muromachi Period of Japan. The collection has been refered to as a meeting between a mechanical ballerina and a graceful samurai.
Madsen collection although not linked to in theme is similar to my own as she has used light fabrics layed them in ways to create textural detailing on the garments and some of her silhouettes are very interesting in style yet very feminine like the two pieces above. the collection has a warrior, tribal feeling, of strength and strong Independence with a hint of fierceness, however it also has a softer femininity within the light fabrics and soft lines of the silhouettes and design detailing. aspects i would like to try and capture from the fishes on beauty yet dangerous survival technique. the designer has used a combination of both advanced pattern cutting and more basic techniques to create her unique collection which is a method i could also adopt for this project to make it achievable. also incorporating tools such as CAD, and other technology to create the intricate designs applied to the pieces.
Madsen has kept the colour palette of the collection neutral earth tones throughout using only one or two colour on each piece that compliment each other and the textural detailing on the design which is unified and completes the garment. like i said before this collection is not directly theme related but it appeals to me for the project as it is created by a young designer like myself and has similar theme relations in that it shows strength, femininity with a hint of danger, all wrapped together through light fabrics with modern silhouettes and complimentary colour palettes.
i feel this work is important as it shows me how a designer like myself has interpreted aspects of similar theme with modern technology, and silhouettes.which can help me to develop and interprets my own them ideas and primary source in a broader range of areas.
below are a few more pieces from this collection that inspire me and i will continue to refer to in the process of developing my own work.
Although this collection does not directly relate to my theme, it is similar in ideas for silhouette, fabrics, design detailing and some of the colour palette it is also relevant and modern today and will help me to create similarly modern and relevant designs for this project. i also adore the entire theme for the collection and show. similarly to the Chanel collection on my last post it has a dreamy atmosphere yet is very fresh and conjure up the feeling of lightness and spring. but it is also by one of the traditional houses of fashion Louis Vuitton so it also has hints of traditional design that i am also trying to incorporate into my own project.
I had looked a this collection and the show at the very start of this project and was immediately inspired by again the dream like, lightness to the fabrics and silhouettes allowing the models to flow and glide as they walked, the silhouettes were unrestricted, feminine and wearable with hint of traditional shapes and structure. just as i had envisioned for my own designs.
The collection was by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton. Jacobs is an American fashion designer born on April 9th, 1963. he is head designer for his own label Marc Jacobs, as well as Marc by Marc and most notably creative director for french design house Louis Vuitton since 1997.
The collection had a fifties influences for silhouettes, dresses had puffed, full skirts and thick doily lace collars, while some were dropped waisted with elaborate laser cut and appliques fabric detailing.all in crisp pastel shades of orange, pink, green, blues and icy whites and silver. all brought together on a bright white carousal.
below are a few pieces from the collection that i was really inspired by.
The pieces are all shown modelled on the carousal catwalk, each is constructed from laser cut floral patterned light fabric with a sheer chiffon or organza over the top or underneath.just like the theme they are light and conjure up a dream like feeling, fantasy like.
the materials are light cottons, sheer organza and similar throughout complimenting the soft yet bright colour palettes. these designs although relatively simplistic would have required strong pattern cutting and manipulating knowledge, as well as basic sewing skills both by machine and hand, with the aid of CAD and laser cutting machines to create the floral cut out detailing, which also provide the textural detailing to the pieces.
Although the silhouettes are not as experimental as i have in mind for my own designs, they are classic and feminine and unrestricted with traditional structural designs in a modern style. this helps me generate further ideas of how to create modern yet traditionally influenced or constructed designs for this project. i was also really inspired by the laser cut detailing and the use of colour as either and under or over finishing to the garment ideas i may take inspiration from in my design developments.
although this collection is not exactly themed like my own it has many elements that inspire me and are similar to my theme so will continue to draw inspiration from it.
Continuing my researching into designers who had taken inspiration from the underwater world and combined them with traditional shapes to create modern designs, i came across the Chanel S/S 2012 collection by Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld is the current designer for the House of Chanel which had originally been started by the infamous Coco Chanel a designer who modernised traditional silhouettes and created iconic pieces that are still used as a basis for modern fashion today i.e the little black dress, Coco Chanel is also part of my inspiration for combining traditional with modern for this project, as inspired by the film Coco before Chanel the film which i had watched at the very start of this project.
Lagerfeld is a German Fashion designer, but also Photographer and director and artist, born on September 10th 1933 in hamburg. He is very well known in the fashion world and most notable for being head designer and creative director for the House of Chanel.
This collection is different to the others i have looked at as it is more classic, monochromatic and simplistic in silhouettes, yet still very feminine and inspiring, compared with the collections like McQueen and Burton's which tend to be more over the top and extra lavish. however it is a refreshing alternative style to the other designs which broadens my design inspiration and ideas in another direction.
The collection was inspired by the ocean and the modern shapes of the fish taking the traditional Chanel and giving a modern dive into the world below the Waves. even the set for the catwalk show was designed like a coral reef. fabrics were also modern and light using cottons, nylons, fibreglass's,polyester weightless, the silhouette is kept clean and classic, effortless as always with Chanel but completely wearable. similarly the colour palettes reflected this soft modern theme ranging from monochromatic to soft pinks,creams,soft greens and blues,shimmering greys like the scales on the fish.
Again these fabric were chosen to reflect the movement and freedom in the way the fishes move. exactly as i had been inspired on my visit to the blue planet and observed the beautifully and effortless movement of the fishes, the fabrics must therefore reflect this and be almost weightless and unrestricted to the wearer.
below are a couple of pieces i particularly liked from this collection.
i liked these design in particular as each had an element or design detail that related to the sea and fish and helped and inspired me for ideas to take from my own research that could develop these ideas in my own way. for example the above image takes the spine details on the fins of the fish and makes it a textural detailing to the entire garment, but the fabric choice is also important as it is lighter fabrics to give the element of soft fluid movement, complimenting this delicate detail. the other pieces have similar elements and each piece is created in soft floating fabrics complimented in an equally soft and feminine colour palette.
The silhouette are classic Chanel in that they are elegant and fit the women's body effortlessly however i feel for this project i wish to challenge my silhouette and pattern cutting skills so will probably take more silhouette inspiration ideas fro the McQueen collection.
Like i said above this collection theme is very similar to my own and i will refer back to it through out the project for snippets of inspiration to inform my own designs. however it is more about the modern and fresh, soft look of the underwater creatures, almost dream like. where as i feel my project is more a combination of this and the McQueen edgy collections, taking inspiration from the movement, colours, elegance and effortlessness of the fish and creatures, my theme is more like Beautiful yet dangerous. combining all these ideas in modern meets traditional in silhouette colour palette and design detailing.
below is also the link to the show video, just because i loved the show and the idea behind this collection SO much.
The last McQueen collection i looked at was the late Alexander McQueen's S/S 'Plato Atlantis' collection.
McQueen was a British fashion designer and Couturier, born 17 march 1969-11 February 2010.
McQueen was and is still known world wide for his unique style and in depth knowledge of bespoke tailoring and often juxtaposing fragility and strength or emotional and raw energy in his outstandingly provocative collections. i think this is what attracts myself and others to his work and i take a allot of inspiration from him as a designer and the way he recreates in his pieces his themes.
This collection was inspired directly from the sea world, were the melted polar icecaps have forced humanity to evolve to life under the sea in flooded cities. were evolved and devolved humanity are scrambling to survive.
below are a few of the pieces that inspire me for both silhouette, and design detailing and also show how colours from the theme are used.
Above i love the piece to the bottom right particularly the skirt and the way it has structured sections over the hips that are highlighted in bright contrasting yellow with textural detailing. the colours and textural detailing are unified yet placed strategically to make the garment look like it flows into the next area like that of a fishes outer body, this is and interesting way to take the patterns of fish and replicate the look on fabrics.
All these pieces are similar to the ideas i have for both silhouettes, fabrics, and textural or design detailing, taking the modern shapes of the sea creatures and fusing them with traditional silhouettes that flatter the figure to create a modern mix of the two. i also love the way McQueen has taken the very vibrant colours palettes of browns, blues, pinks, green, yellows,aquas etc and made them features on the garments or prints that compliment the silhouette in a striking way. each piece conjures up a feeling of futuristic marine fantasy world were everything is hyper colourful yet alien in its form, i feel capturing the theme of the designer ideas perfectly.
These two designs above, shown modelled on the catwalk, i was particularly drawn to as they take the idea of the modern patterned dresses and traditional tailored jackets and merge them together to create a pattern or cut away effect within the design of the piece that reveals the patterned print underneath. this is an interesting idea of combining modern and traditional similar to my own theme ideas and something i will experiment with within the designing and development stages of my project.
this collection would have required an in depth knowledge of pattern manipulation and cutting to create the stunning structured and tailored yet modern and feminine silhouettes.
as this collection is closely linked to my own theme ideas i feel that is is one i will reflect on throughout my designing stages taking ideas my own ideas and being inspired on how to recreate them from this collection.
