This post follows on from my last, looking at another of the collections by the McQueen label again a Sarah Burton collection the A/W 2012 Collection inspired by 'Beautiful future. again inspired by nature the collection depicts 'The soft bed of the forest floor by day and night. The domed caps and rippling underbellies of mushrooms and other fungi. Light and shade, power and protection, hyper-femininity and strength'.
McQueen collections by both Sarah Burton and the late Alexander McQueen really inspire me and are two designers i find the most Influential. the way they challenge silhouettes and create statement pieces that are still feminine yet edgy is what i aspire to create in my own pieces. because of this i have researched and looked at a lot of their collections both current and past, for this project as they also look a lot at nature in their collections.
Below are a few images of the collection i find the most interesting, and i feel relate to my project theme the most.
The Silhouettes become more three-dimensional and over sized as the collection progressed, shape, texture, print and embellishment beginning at the waist and moving to the neck down. embellishments in the forms of feathers, furs and silver dandelion and enamel blossom embroideries float on textured surfaces.
the collection was dominated by Funnel necks, Mongolian lamb collars, trapeze lines, cape-backs and bell shaped, rolled skirts.
Pale Silk and Mohair Jacquards appliqued with felt flowers, degrade silks and ruffled organza's, hammered metal harnessing gave a hard edge, all features of the collection.
The design below was my favourite from the collection, i particularly like this piece as it has lots of textural detailing while combining different materials both soft fabrics and hard metals on an over sized silhouette that is still feminine in form.
The piece is shown on the catwalk worn by a model who wears a face adornment across the eyes to complete the look. the piece is an over sized muted purple dress above knee length made up of layers of light fabrics with a central metal plate on the chest.
The catwalk is kept dark and clinical with a spotlight on the garment to focus the eye, which gives a sense of organic feel and futuristic from the construction of the design, and head piece worn on the model. which i feel is what the designer was also trying to capture within the piece the idea of the layers and shapes found in unusual fungus that often appear not from this world. the over sized layering and mixture of different materials to create a futuristic yet organic effect really inspires me, as it shows me further ways to experiment with my own designs inspired from the marine creatures of the sea.
The design is created from lots of layers of soft free moving fabrics like pale silks and hand shaped metal adornments. The silk has then been finished/hemmed in organic lines to give a more fungus shaped detail.
this design would have required and understanding and skills in advanced pattern cutting and application to the form to give an over sized yet fitted and flattering silhouette, it would also have needed and understanding of the materials and how to cut them so that they would hang in the desired way.and skills in sewing by hand and machine to construct the piece. the colour palette is restricted to a single pale muted tone of lilac/purple that continues throughout the garment, complimenting the continual over sized shape of the silhouette and textural layering of fabrics predominant throughout the piece, with only the contrast of the metal detailing to the chest as a variety to the design.
This design interests me as a designer not only because it takes the natural form and interprets it on the female form in fabric, similar to my own project theme but it takes the over sized textural idea and makes it flatter the form in a new and unusual shape. for this reason it interests me and will influence me in my future designing and inspiration generating, to look at details and try and interpret them in new ways that both flatter the form but challenge shape and design in lots of varying ways.
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